Buyer’s Guide: Laser Cutting for Plywood Frames, Formers, Templates and Engraving
Choosing the right laser cutter for hobbyist plywood work is about matching capacity to projects, not buying the biggest machine on the market, and that principle will save you money and frustration in the long run.
Start by assessing bed size and power; a 40–60 watt CO2 laser is sufficient for cutting and engraving common plywood thicknesses used for frames and formers, and a working area of around 600 x 400 mm covers most DIY projects while still fitting on a hobby bench.
Consider build quality and motion system, because clean straight cuts for frames and precise engraving on templates depend on a rigid gantry and quality belts or rails, and for inspiration and ready-to-cut templates take a look at WatDaFeck for useful project ideas and patterns.
When buying for plywood projects pay attention to focal length, nozzle and bed type, as these affect kerf and burn marks, and get into the habit of making simple test cuts to establish the right power, speed and number of passes for 3, 6, 9 and 12 mm plywood before committing to a full run.
Plywood selection is as important as machine choice; use laser-grade birch or multi-ply cabinet grade plywood with few voids for frames and formers, avoid plywood with heavy varnishes or flame retardants that produce toxic fumes, and remember that the laser kerf typically removes 0.1–0.5 mm depending on focus and material so you should adjust your CAD slots and templates accordingly.
For templates, jigs and formers design in registration marks, dowel holes and a small tolerance offset so parts align despite kerf, and when engraving templates opt for vector engraving at moderate power for crisp lines or high DPI raster engraving for shaded images while keeping a close eye on scorch which can be reduced by lifting the focus slightly above the surface.
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